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Who is Jess Vosseteig? Dr Martens in anti-trans firestorm after 'mastectomy' design

The company's decision to showcase a pair of custom rainbow-colored boots featuring a topless figure with scars under their breasts sparks outrage
UPDATED AUG 1, 2023
The boots, designed by self-described 'queer illustrator' Jess Vosseteig (inset), were advertised on Dr Martens' Instagram last week (Instagram/@jessvoss_art, @drmartensusa)
The boots, designed by self-described 'queer illustrator' Jess Vosseteig (inset), were advertised on Dr Martens' Instagram last week (Instagram/@jessvoss_art, @drmartensusa)

LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA: Dr Martens, the iconic footwear brand once associated with subcultural tribes like punks and skinheads, has found itself engulfed in a storm of controversy after promoting boots that appear to endorse transgender surgery. The company's decision to showcase a pair of custom rainbow-colored boots featuring a topless cartoon figure with scars under their breasts as part of their 'DIY Docs' collection has ignited a polarizing debate among customers and social media users alike.

Who is Jess Vosseteig?

The boots, designed by self-described 'queer illustrator' Jess Vosseteig, were proudly advertised on Dr Martens' Instagram account and website last week. Vosseteig, a Colorado-based artist, explained her intentions behind the design, saying, "I wanted to include two stylized people that were part of the queer community. I knew I wanted to incorporate lots of color with rainbows, clouds, and sparkles! I wrote 'Queer Joy' on the back of them to send the message that queer joy will always exist." Her previous work, including a piece titled 'periods have no gender,' further emphasizes her commitment to inclusivity and challenging traditional gender norms. Vosseteig's artistic efforts were even recognized with the 2022 Creative Activism Award from the University of Colorado, Boulder.


 
 
 
 
 
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A post shared by Jess Vosseteig | Illustrator (@jessvoss_art)


 

Vosseteig's commitment to LGBTQ+ issues goes beyond the controversial boots. She has previously partnered with major brands, including Lush, Facebook, and publisher Harper Collins, to create art pieces promoting inclusivity and equality. In a 2021 interview with Shoutout Colorado, Vosseteig shared her passion for her work, stating, "I am deeply inspired by the uniqueness of individuals, feminism, the LGBTQ+ community, bright color palettes, and fashion. With a minor in Women and Gender Studies, I blend my knowledge and passion for intersectional feminism, equality, and inclusivity with my love of art." She added: "I often get imposter syndrome and wonder if what I make matters, but then I am reminded that my work speaks to so many different people and brings positivity into the world."

Criticism and accusations

However, the LGBTQ+ friendly boots quickly became a subject of intense debate. Some social media users accused Dr Martens of exploiting sensitive issues for profit, with one furious user commenting, "How shameful. I'm disgusted," and another stating, "Cashing in on the mutilation of young teenage girls and lesbians is so cool and progressive. Shame on you!"

Several people suggested that the cartoon character featured on the boots might be a minor. To address this concern, Dr Martens clarified that the artwork was intended for adults only, as the post was part of a seven-day Instagram competition targeting individuals over the age of 18. Despite this clarification, critics remained skeptical about the boots' appropriateness for public consumption.


 
 
 
 
 
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A post shared by Dr. Martens USA (@drmartensusa)


 

On the other side of the debate, many praised Dr Martens for supporting the LGBTQ+ community and standing up for minorities. Supporters described the boots as "fire and rainbows" and expressed excitement at the prospect of winning a pair, with one enthusiast saying they would "explode" with joy if they were successful in the competition.

Backlash parallels

The controversy bears similarities to Bud Light's past partnership with transgender TikToker influencer Dylan Mulvaney, which reportedly resulted in a significant drop in sales for the beer brand. While some criticized Dr Martens for risking the alienation of its customer base, others argued that the company should have done more to support Vosseteig and the LGBTQ+ cause.


 
 
 
 
 
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A post shared by Dylan Mulvaney (@dylanmulvaney)


 

Conservative groups also joined the fray, with Jay Richards from the Heritage Foundation expressing concern over the company's celebration of the controversial design without adequately considering customer sentiment. Speaking to the Daily Mail, Richards questioned whether Dr Martens had conducted proper market research, asking, "Did Dr. Martens poll test this allusion to 'top surgery' with its customer base? Or is it making the same foolish mistake made by Bud Light?"

Dr Martens' legacy

Dr Martens' roots can be traced back to 1945 when it was founded by a Nazi soldier using military supplies. The iconic 1460 boot, known for its comfort and durability, gained popularity among various subcultures, including skinheads, punks, and grunge enthusiasts. Despite facing setbacks in the past, the brand has experienced a resurgence and garnered a diverse fan base, including LGBT youths.

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